At the end of July, I drove up to Eswatini to participate in the events marking the 60th anniversary of my school, Waterford Kamhlaba United World College. It is at least a seven-hour drive, so I stopped overnight at the Ghost Mountain Inn in the little Zululand town of Mkuze. The town lies at the foot of the Lebombo mountains – they are part of a chain of low volcanic hills that run for 800 km in the east of southern Africa. There was conflict between two Zulu factions and a battle on one of the hills. Hundreds died, according to Rider Haggard (famous for King Solomon’s Mines, partly set in Swaziland), and the souls manifest as flickering lights, hence the name.

In Mbabane I spent part of Friday with the National Emergency Response Commission on HIV and AIDS (NERCHA). I have worked with them since they were founded. They are efficient and innovative, but they are operating in an inefficient, undemocratic, and corrupt country. This also poses a potential problem for the school; I am no longer involved in the governance, so it is not my problem anymore!

The 60th celebrations were well organised, but poorly attended by alumni. Still, at least there were half a dozen of us from the same era, and we got together on Friday and Saturday for dinner. There were student performances: a gumboot dance; traditional Swazi dances, one done by a group of female students wearing mahiyas (Swazi traditional clothes); and a number of, mercifully, short speeches. The one by the King’s representative was seriously tone deaf. He referred to the female students and said they would be welcome at the Reed dance (details here and here).

When I was growing up, we knew this celebration as one where young women collected reeds and carried them to the kraal of the Queen Mother. They could only take part if they were virgins and there were ‘virginity’ tests. We understood that the King chose a new wife from the serried ranks of the maidens every year, although these were also a way of forging political alliances. It is a tradition, but is sexist and demeaning. Not all traditions need to be perpetuated!

I enjoy road trips and I made my way back to Durban via rural Swaziland and a little town called Makanda. It was formerly known as Piet Retief after one of the voortrekkers, the settlers who trekked into the interior to get away from British rule in the Cape. As in North America, they had covered wagons, drawn by oxen, and covered great distances, but slowly. I normally stop there and have dinner with a chap called Arnau, a Dutch Reformed Church minister who worked in Swaziland. He set up an amazing AIDS community support intervention in the south, in Shiselweni district. I generally visit on a Sunday, and we end up at the only eatery that is open: Steers, part of a steakhouse chain.

As I drove into the town of Vryheid (translation Freedom, but clearly only for white people), I got lost and had to ask directions. The middle-aged white Afrikaans man who helped me had about three teeth in his mouth. A few moments later I passed an elderly man sitting in a wheelchair at the end of his drive. He had no legs, but had one prosthesis, which looked as though it was made from Meccano. It was a sobering view of small-town life.

The drive back to Durban from there took nearly eight hours, more than I expected! It was a chance to re-acquaint myself with some fantastic countryside. The main drawback is the road from Richards Bay to Golela. South Africa is exporting huge quantities of coal at the moment, and it is being taken to the harbour by truck. These enormous vehicles dominate the roads. To avoid that experience I went through Melmoth and Eshowe, a slower and more enjoyable journey. I went about 25 kilometres up the coast to have lunch at The Clay Oven, an excellent little restaurant in Mtunzini overlooking the Indian Ocean. Of course, it was also a trip down memory lane, and I found myself reflecting on the many friendships that inspired and sustained me over the years. Owen Sharp was particularly in my thoughts.

My news in the last post was that I have angina, a painful but not fatal heart condition. My GP in the UK diagnosed it and prescribed various medications. He referred me to the heart clinic at the Norfolk and Norwich Hospital, but as I was planning to travel to Durban, and I have medical aid as a retirement benefit, I came to see Robin Dyer. He is a cardiologist who I have known for years. He was part of the regular touch-rugby team at the University.

Rob gave me a thorough examination in his rooms and sent me for a Cardio CT scan. The result: areas of coronary plaque (i.e. cholesterol build up). According to the scoring system to “stratify risk” I have relatively minor disease in two of the three coronary arteries and in one area in the third is ‘intermediate risk’. Recommendations: “aggressive risk factor modification and lifestyle change”; keep on with the medications; weight loss and moderate intensity aerobic exercise. It could have been much worse!

A combination of the 60th anniversary, this health issue, and some serious arm twisting have convinced me to take part in the Waterford Challenge. The idea is people set themselves a challenge and ask family, friends, colleagues and acquaintances (in fact anyone and everyone) to sponsor them. See the website for my challenge – my target is to raise R67,000.

My undertaking is to walk 250 kilometres, over a month, starting on Swaziland Independence Day 6th September. If 100 people donate a mere R670, $35 or £28, at current exchange rates then I will make it. As of early on 22nd August there was already just over £144 or $184 pledged. It would mean a great deal to me, and the school, if we could reach this target. I will post regular updates on my website, and report in my monthly blog. Having contributed to other challenges, I know the process of donating should be simple and painless. If it does not work on this platform there is a second option that we will share. Thank you in advance.

Walking round Glenwood makes me aware of how much poverty and need there is in South Africa. There are people, of all races, begging on many street corners! I try to carry change; however, I know it is just a drop in the ocean. The best, immediate, way forward would be to introduce a basic income grant. There have been proposals, but it has not gained traction. There is an election scheduled for South Africa in 2024 and the consensus is that the ANC will not get a majority. That means a coalition government, and potential for change. Also crucial though is education, hence my support for Waterford.

My flat was raided, for the second time this week, by the Glenwood troop of monkeys. On the previous occasion they came in through the window, went right into the flat and took fruit out of the bowl in the hall. Today I was sitting on the veranda when I heard a noise. I went and saw a monkey leaving with a pawpaw (papaya) in its paw. This has never happened before. My neighbour told me she keeps her fruit in the fridge because the monkeys are so bold! Clearly doors will have to be kept closed. I wonder if, at this time of the year, there is less available for them to forage.

That’s it for August, I need to finish, proofread and send it off for posting.