Stately Homes, the Theatre, and Global Crises

Since I last posted I celebrated a birthday. It was not a significant number, although aged over 65, one should be happy to mark all birthdays. I had a pleasant few days, with family being very kind, generous and supportive! Tolstoy said in Anna Karenina: “Happy families are all alike; every unhappy family is unhappy in its own way.” At present we are happy, long may it last and touch wood. My sister Gill came up for the weekend ahead of my birthday, and Rowan and Ben joined in with many events.

The weather was benevolent all weekend. On the 16th March we had a family outing to Blickling Hall. This stately home, set in beautiful Norfolk countryside, is only about 12 miles north of us. It was built in Tudor times by Sir John Fastolf of Caister (1380–1459). The house subsequently passed to the Boleyn family and may have been the birthplace of Anne Boleyn (1501 or 1507 to 19th May 1536), the second of King Henry VIII’s six wives. She failed to produce a living male heir and was executed on Henry’s orders.

The current house was built by Sir Henry Hobart (1560–1626) who bought the estate in 1616. It was left to the National Trust by Philip Kerr, 11th Marquess of Lothian in 1940. The house is a stately home, not a castle, although there are the remains of a moat. This was apparently retained by Hobart to ensure he did not overrun his budget. It is a very impressive and huge red brick rectangular building, with towers at each corner.

We did not go into the house but contented ourselves with walking round it and admiring the gardens, lake, and grounds. The spring flowers were magnificent, and while it was cool, it was a lovely, sunny day. The trees still had bare branches; it is only in the past two weeks that the leaves have started bursting out! We treated ourselves to tea in the café, sadly it was ordinary!

One of my other birthday activities was a theatre visit. There is a small, thriving theatre scene in Norwich. The Theatre Royal tends to show popular productions, especially musicals. The smaller Norwich Playhouse Theatre has shorter runs. Jonny and the Baptists played there for just two nights. The show, with Jonny and his partner, is hard to describe. Music, social commentary, and satire were all part of it. I was not pleased to see many empty seats in the building, they deserved better.

Douglas is a great fan and encouraged us to go. While I enjoyed it, I think I was in the most uncomfortable seat in the theatre. It sagged to the left. There seemed to be little padding, and what was there formed waves and hummocks under my weight. I admit to being short, even so it felt as though my knees were next to my ears. Despite these challenges it was a great show and was enjoyed by all.

We had a pre-theatre supper at The Bicycle Shop on St Benedict’s Street. This is self-described as a “Former bike shop, now a bohemian cafe/bar serving food from breakfast to tapas with live music”. The food is excellent and the space interesting! The ‘theme’ of the furniture is that it all appears to come from house clearances. Nonetheless the interior design, or perhaps ‘thrown together’ would be a better description, works. It is a welcoming, if eclectic, space.

Norwich is well endowed with excellent restaurants and the family has eaten out a great deal over the last month. Over Easter we had a visitor from Durban, Tanya Brauninger, who is between Douglas and Rowan in age. The Brauninger family lived up the road from us in Durban and were great friends. Tanya stayed with Rowan and, at Rowan’s suggestion, we went to The Weaver’s Arms for their special roast Sunday lunch. There was not much choice for the vegetarian contingent: just nut roast! The carnivores could choose between roast pork, beef, lamb or chicken. However, there was an array of delicious roast vegetables, so everyone was more than satisfied. No one had room for dessert.

This mundane and somewhat indulgent news from Norfolk needs to be contrasted with what is going on in the many crisis hit parts of the world. It seems just yesterday that we were watching, with shock and horror, the treatment of the Rohingya in Myanmar and the Uyghurs of the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region in Northwest China. These events were, rightly, described as genocides. Are there degrees of genocide? It seems there are.

Events in Israel and Gaza beggar belief. They have dominated the pages of the left-wing media and been given a great deal of coverage on the BBC. I need to say at this point that, despite the views of some, I do not consider the BBC to be left wing, indeed I consider it an unbiased and balanced news source. I find it increasingly hard to follow the twists and turns in the story. At the same time, I recognise ordinary people caught up in the horror do not have the possibility of turning the page or changing channels, this is their lived, daily reality. I hope sanity prevails and there is settlement soon. I want western nations to act and put pressure on all parties.

The war in Ukraine has been going on for more than two years. To my mind that is clearcut. We know who the bad guys are. Naked, unjustified aggression by Russia resulted in a conflict on Ukrainian territory, with consequential destruction and death. I have a family member working in Moscow, and South African apartheid paranoia means I am cautious about what I say and write. I recently read an excellent book: The Story of Russia by Orlando Figes.1 It is a history of the country from the earliest days to about 2021. I read it slowly, a few pages a day, over a couple of months. When I finished, I thought to myself, ‘Now I understand more about what is happening’. It does not give any hope for a resolution to the conflict soon.

In my view the biggest threat to world peace is the potential re-election of Donald Trump to the presidency in the USA later this year. A comment in The Guardian summarised this very well:

“American politics is dangerously thrilling because it is so consequential for the rest of the world. In Britain we are doomed to sit through a more trivial show, an unfunny farce played out in a theatre that is crumbling around us’.2

I pray this does not happen.

This is also a comment on the state of British politics. Next week there are local government elections in England and that should give a clear indication of the bankruptcy of the Conservative party and government, but it does not mean a general election is imminent, Sunak can cling to power until January 2025. There are no seats being contested in our area, but the Police and Crime Commissioner is up for election, and I am not sure what that means.

Let me end on a lighter note. On the website Political Compass there are a series of questions to plot one’s position on a social and economic scale: libertarian to authoritarian and left to right. My red dot shows me to be more libertarian than Nelson Mandela and Bernie Sanders and further left than Mahatma Gandhi. My friends and family all fall in the same area of the graph. This is predictable but troubling, do we operate in an echo chamber? I recommend the quiz as a thought-provoking exercise. The website is worth exploring: do you know the words and tune of the Internationale? If not, they, and an eclectic collection of tunes are here.


  1. Orlando Figes, ‘The Story of Russia’, Bloomsbury Publishing, London, 2023
  2. Peter Conrad http://www.theguardian.com/books/2024/mar/31/the-washington-book-how-to-read-politics-and-politicians-carlos-lozada-review-unpicking-the-unpicking-lexicon-america-leaders

Museums in Spring

Spring is here. The days are longer; the crocuses have come and gone; the daffodils are out; there is blossom on many of the trees, indeed the first leaves are emerging; and it is slowly getting warmer. However, the welcome sunny days have been intermittent, the overwhelming feature has been grey and chilly periods. The temperature will rise in time.

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Family and a Funeral

In my last post I mentioned we were hosting my half-sister Pat’s dog, Bessie, a small black Patterdale terrier. Pat’s husband, David, had been waiting for surgery and did not want the dog around in the run up to it, or in the recovery period. Bessie was with their daughter, Kate, but needed interim lodging. We collected her at the end of December. The trip was also a chance to see family.

Sadly, David died on New Year’s Eve 2023. Arranging funerals and cremations can be a lengthy process, the facilities are busy in January. The date was set for 1st February in their hometown of Cranbrook. The Norwich contingent was Ailsa, Douglas, Rowan, and me. As Rowan and Douglas could only get one day off work, we had to make a day trip.

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A Very Chilly Spell

We are well into the New Year and have had an unexpected guest for the past few weeks. This is because of my complicated family. My father (born in 1899 and died in 1989) married his first wife, the daughter of his landlord in London, while he was training as an architect. His first daughter, Patricia, was born in 1931 in Bulawayo. Although he and her mother divorced, he remained involved in her life. He was instrumental in getting her a job in Kenya in social work in the 1950s.

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The Score: Durban 27°, Norwich 5°

It was something of a shock to travel from Durban to Norwich in early December 2023. Firstly, the difference in temperature was considerable; secondly, although there was a fair amount of rain in Durban, there was also sunshine. For the first week in Norwich, we had virtually no sun, just unremitting grey days; and thirdly and finally, I had been away for a long time, nearly six months. Regular readers of the blog know the reasons for my extended stay, and I won’t go into them again.

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Cape Town and the Rugby World Cup

My October seemed dominated by health issues. I don’t want to dwell on them but will give a short update, as it has taken time for me to process the events. The first day in the Intensive Care Unit (ICU) was bleak. The man in the bed opposite was hooked up to machines that beeped steadily, and constantly. Additionally, there was a nurse aide sitting watching over him. Over the course of the day the beeps slowed down and eventually stopped. There were no interventions, other than to finally draw the curtains round the bed. Not something anyone would want to witness. I was, I think, the least in need of intensive care and the most conscious of my surroundings. The main reason for my inpatient status was so antibiotics could be administered intravenously.

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Touring and Health

It has been some weeks since I last posted. They have been busy weeks though, and not all entirely in a good way. Let me begin with the good stuff, and, unusually, I was able to upload photographs this month, they are at the end!

After the success of the Cape Town to Durban drive last year, my friend Tim and I planned a road trip for the end of August. I flew down to Cape Town and Tim drove in from Riviersondereind. We stayed in Derek and Lynn’s house for a couple of nights, and then set off. The reason for the slight delay was that I had a rotten cold. It turned out there was a lot more going on with my health than that though.

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Health, Hearts, and Hope

At the end of July, I drove up to Eswatini to participate in the events marking the 60th anniversary of my school, Waterford Kamhlaba United World College. It is at least a seven-hour drive, so I stopped overnight at the Ghost Mountain Inn in the little Zululand town of Mkuze. The town lies at the foot of the Lebombo mountains – they are part of a chain of low volcanic hills that run for 800 km in the east of southern Africa. There was conflict between two Zulu factions and a battle on one of the hills. Hundreds died, according to Rider Haggard (famous for King Solomon’s Mines, partly set in Swaziland), and the souls manifest as flickering lights, hence the name.

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It is Chilly in Durban

When I last posted, over a month ago, I speculated about the prospects for a drought in the south of the UK. Although I have now been in South Africa for three, I am assured that there has been ample rain in Norwich, indeed some very heavy showers with ‘localised flooding’. Sadly, this is symptomatic of global climate change. By contrast, the nights in Durban have been extremely chilly, to the point that I have had all the blankets in the flat on the bed and am wearing my fleece.

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Is a Drought Beginning in England?

June was a dry month, and the garden, which is still verdant, lush, and green, will start showing heat stress unless we have rain in the next week. I find it unbelievable that there are those who still deny the reality of climate change. I wonder if the importance of ‘lived experience’, pardon the academic jargon here, is underestimated.

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