Teeth and travel

At the beginning of October I developed a toothache. It persisted and got steadily worse. The dentist saw me immediately, for which I am very grateful, x-rayed the teeth, identified two abscesses, and gave me two antibiotics. One was anti-alcohol which meant I had a dry two weeks. The following week I was scheduled to fly to Johannesburg and drive to Eswatini (Swaziland). On the Monday there was a lump in my gum, and it was still very painful. I had an emergency appointment, the abscess was lanced, and the relief was immediate!

I am aware that there is a crisis in the UK regarding access to National Health Service Dentists, and so feel incredibly fortunate to have had this dealt with so promptly! The dentist in Norwich warned I would have to have root canal treatment. I visited my dentist in Durban who confirmed the diagnosis but said two teeth would have to be extracted, and I would need root canal treatment and implants. This will be done here, where, as a pensioner, I have a generous medical aid scheme.

My travelling had been in some doubt, but I was able to get on the 6am plane from Norwich to Amsterdam and connect to Joburg. The plane was packed; however, I had a huge stroke of luck, the person next to me on take off was the father of one of the flight crew. After we were in the air he disappeared so there was an empty seat the whole way! These things make a difference.

Unusually I binge watched films. Elvis is basically the story of Elvis Presley, his manager Colonel Parker and their destructive and difficult relationship. Once I had invested an hour in it, I had to keep on watching, albeit slightly resentfully. It is not a film I recommend, and it was disappointingly short on music. The Unbearable Weight of Massive Talent is basically Nicholas Cage playing himself, but there were a few interesting twists in the plot. The best of the bunch was The Outfit. It is a complicated plot involving a British tailor operating an establishment in Chicago in the 1950s, and laundering mob money. I won’t say any more about the story as it is worth seeing, but note the entire film is shot in the tailor’s shop (apart from a couple of frames showing people walking in snow).

After staying over at an airport hotel in Johannesburg, I collected a car for the drive to Mbabane. Yet again I was pulled over by the traffic cops: 100 kph in an 80 kph zone. The officer informed me the fine was R750, I went and looked at the camera and said, ‘fair cop’, and I would do the electronic transfer when I had internet access. He walked me back to the car and we chatted. In the end he said he had not filled my personal details in the form, and I could go. Was he expecting a bribe? I honestly don’t know, but all he got was a warm handshake, and a promise that I would donate R500 to a charity of his choice, he said, it should be ‘children’.

The main reason for the trip was to attend the wedding of Nathi Dlamini and Joanna Patouris. I first met Nathi in Waterloo in 2014. I asked the Waterford alumni organisation to give me the names of anyone in the area. He was doing a degree at the University of Waterloo. Joanna was also at Waterford, indeed that is where they met and became a couple back in 2003. She went to a university in the US on a Shelby Davis Scholarship. Over my time in Waterloo, I got to know Nathi and, through him, Joanne. It was great, despite the difference in age, to connect with people from Swaziland and Waterford. I was flattered and honoured to be invited to the wedding.

I was able to catch up with the National Emergency Response to HIV and AIDS (NERCHA) team in Mbabane and visit Waterford for lunch on Friday. On the Saturday I had lunch with Derek von Wissell, the original head of NERCHA and someone who was very influential in my career. I first met him in the mid-1980s when I was researching industrial incentives in Southern Africa, and he was the Minister of Commerce. I pointed out to him that Swaziland could not compete with the incentives being offered in Botswana. He dismissively said, “Why would anyone want to go there, it is just one long dusty street”. This I have long remembered as a momentous comment. He went on to serve briefly as the Minister of Finance, and then for many years as the Minister of Health. He was in post through the worst of the AIDS pandemic.

Photo of a statue at House on Fire, Malkerns Eswatini

House on Fire, Malkerns Eswatini

The main event was, of course, the wedding. It was held in the lush, green gardens of House on Fire in Malkerns. The venue is absolutely stunning, and I would urge readers to visit the website. It includes a restaurant, craft shops, music venues and an events tent. I have included one photograph of part of the building, but it does not show the magnificent location or the pineapple fields! There is a Waterford connection there as well, the owner is an alum and his mother, Jenny Thorn, taught at the school in the early years. I well remember how she dealt compassionately with me during a severe attack of homesickness. My initial time at the school was marred by the fact I had a hookworm infestation in my intestines. I remember the crippling pain, which was initially thought to be psychosomatic because of my first boarding school experiences.

The ceremony was conducted by a Padre of the Greek Orthodox Church in a clearing in the garden. There were rows of chairs for the guests. When I sat down, I discovered that the ground was so soft the legs of the chair sank a good four inches into the ground. I note that this is another reason for losing weight, so as not to disappear in these settings. The wedding invitation included a very thoughtful description of the ceremony. I have lifted part of this. In the traditions of the Greek Orthodox Church there are two services – the Engagement Service and the Service of Crowning. Most of the rituals: blessing the rings and passing them back and forth; and crowning the couple were done three times. It was like nothing I have ever seen before, and it was a pleasure to be there. Thanks to the antibiotic I was unable to drink any alcohol and so I think I was more aware than I might have been.

Photo of a Male Weaver Bird building a nest

Male Weaver Bird

On the trip and here in Durban I became aware of the weaver birds furiously building their nests. The first place was the Ngwenya border post. I took a picture of a male (nest building bird and a nest) off the web and include it. They live in colonies, so if one is not made aware of the birds by their frenetic activity and noise, the white stains on the ground or pavement are a giveaway. My relationship with the birdlife around the flat is more complex, I am on the third floor and so am level with the trees. The first bird calls are at 3.30 and they really get going at 4.30. I don’t appreciate this.

It has been a month since I last posted to my website. I will be in Durban for at least a month and then will travel to Cape Town from where I will fly back to Norwich for Christmas. I must renew my South African passport and won’t be able to travel until this is done. It is a slow process! I suppose one of the main goals of this trip is to think about what to do next. The three certain consequences of retirement are: there is no longer a salary or wage coming in every month; one loses status; and there is so much more time. I think I am more fortunate than most: our resources are sufficient; I keep the Professor Emeritus title; and I do have things I want to do. The last is the most difficult as one has to set one’s own deadlines.

Well, that must be it for the October blog. I really appreciate the 400+ people who subscribe and get notifications from us. I am always open to feedback, either through my website or an email to me awhiteside1956@gmail.com

Have a good spring or autumn wherever you are.

Farewells and Coincidences

In July 2018 I went to my last Governing Council meeting at Waterford Kamhlaba United World College (WK) where I have been a Governor for 24 years. I thought I would weep at the farewell cocktail party. To my surprise I did not. Perhaps this was because of the example of fellow Governor Derek Blackman retiring after nine years. Derek never tires of reminding me that, in the minutes of the meeting where he was nominated, a Governor (in fact me) remarked this was a mistake as he was based in the UK and would not travel to the meetings. He attended all 27 meetings during his tenure and made a great contribution. It was, however, an emotional evening. I posted my farewell remarks on my website, not because they were earth-shattering, but because I put thought into them and they are reflective.

I stayed at the Mountain Inn which has become my home in eSwatini. It is at the top of the Ezulwini Valley and has magnificent views. I was particularly glad to spend time with Quinton Reissmann, who was at St Mark’s primary school with me. He is currently a teacher at WK, having worked mainly in government schools in Swaziland. We are both grey (him more than me because he has hair). When I am with him I feel the years fall away.

The hotel has five new rooms. They were good enough to put me in the largest, not that I needed the space. The new rooms were not the biggest change, a couple of months ago it was announced that the country was changing its name from Swaziland to Eswatini. In this, and future writing I will refer to past events as having happened in Swaziland, but from now, if it is something new, I will talk about Eswatini. I had a very African experience, as I was walking down to the room one evening I felt a thump on my upper arm. I wondered what it was: a large moth? When I got to the room I glanced to down and to the left. There was a little gecko riding, contentedly, on my shoulder!

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