On Films and Books

A couple of weeks ago Douglas and I went to see the movie Hamnet, which is based on the book of the same name by Maggie O’Farrell. Hamnet was William Shakespeare’s only son who died of the bubonic plague aged 11. He contracted it after his twin, Judith, fell ill with it. In the film he lay next to her and asks God to spare her and take him instead. This is what happens, he dies and she recovers.

I didn’t have a very good idea of what the movie was going to be like. If anything, I thought it might be a little hackneyed. I could not have been more wrong! It is essentially the story of William and Anne (or Agnes) Shakespeare and their family. They had three children, a daughter and then twins: a boy and girl. Hamnet, the older of the twins, is the boy. The film was moving and at points both Douglas and I were in tears.

I won’t give any spoilers other than to say perhaps the most affecting part was to see Hamnet delirious and having convulsions. I am certain that this is what I went through when I had measles which evolved into encephalitis. The scenes on the screen felt familiar, as though I had been through it. I was just six years old, and although my mother told me I couldn’t remember anything, I do. I’m not certain how true the depictions of day-to-day life were, the Elizabethan village was remarkably clean and ordered. The acting was excellent and the story gripping.

I continue to exercise. Most days I walk the magical 10 km, which is pleasing. I missed the day when it rained from nine to six. Although we set off, the rain started before we crossed the main road, perhaps fortunately. As we were walking past the local barber shop, and it was empty of customers, I diverted and had an overdue hair and beard cut. It is really convenient, of course it is primarily the beard that needs attention.

In late January Ailsa and I went for a very long walk, over 12 km. It was a really nice day with plenty of sunshine. We walked through the glorious Norfolk countryside to a pub for lunch. The path follows an old railway line; the tracks were taken up decades ago. It has been turned into a wonderful recreation route, called the Marriott’s Way, which is tarred for some lengths. The Way stretches from Norwich to the market town of Reepham and then to Aylsham. Much of the route is in the valley of the Wensum River. In total the route is just over 40 kilometers in length.

We joined it on the outskirts of Norwich and walked to a public house in Drayton. Obviously, since it was a railway, it is flat. That is not bad for walking, and it passes through some attractive and mildly undulating countryside.

The food was not great; indeed, we thought it had been plated and left for some time before being brought to the table. I had fish, chips and mushy peas; the fish was meagre and slightly dried out and the chips were mediocre. Ailsa did not get exactly what she ordered. However, it was welcome after the exercise, as was the tea.

It took the service a long time and there was little point in raising complaints. The place was understaffed, but the people on duty were friendly and as efficient as they could be. I had a look at the Tripadvisor review website, and discovered I was not alone in thinking it could have been better.

The global political situation causes me great concern. Trump has sown the wind, but he won’t reap the whirlwind, it is the poor and disenfranchised people of the world who will. I don’t think anyone would have held USAID up as a model of charitable giving with good governance. Nevertheless, it was run by people with the best of intentions, was extraordinarily generous, and kept many people alive. There can be no doubt that we have lost a great resource. They supported some of our work in Durban and the region, and many staff became friends.

By the time you read this we have made it through January. According to popular science ‘Blue Monday’, the third Monday in January is ‘the most depressing day of the year’ (in the Northern Hemisphere). The sun rises a little earlier and sets a little later every day, a cause of optimism.

Ailsa and I went to Norwich for a talk by local public historian Dr Alison Dow on the connections between 18th Century South Africa and Norfolk. This was hosted by the Norwich Society, and held at our central public library and events centre, The Forum. It was well attended, albeit mainly by the clearly retired ‘class’. She focused on the period from about 1750 to 1900 and on three or four big names in the area.

Needless to say, the people she was talking about were all upper-class and some were aristocrats. The most interesting fact I learnt was that one wealthy and notable person who decided to join the 1820 settlers in the Eastern Cape area took 20 families with him. They came from Lammas, his village in Norfolk! I don’t think they had a clue as to what they were getting into. Rowan (the daughter) and Ledger (the grandson) were in the area of the Forum, so we met for lunch.

The third week of January saw the annual gathering of the great and the good (and some more dubious characters) in Davos in Switzerland. Due to my expertise in looking at the socio-economic impact of AIDS I was invited to a couple of these meetings in the early 2000s. It was an amazing experience for me, and I learnt a great deal.

What I found truly remarkable then was that all the South Africans were invited to a specific pre-caucus. We talked about how we could make the event work for the country and sell South Africa. The amount of goodwill and commitment was considerable, and we were all treated as equals, our desire to see South Africa developed being paramount. There was news I saw that suggests this still happens.

The dominant personality for the most recent meeting was, of course, Donald Trump, who gave a rambling address. It lasted over an hour and, as far as I could see, the main point of substance he made was that the US is not going to use force to take over Greenland, though several times he said Iceland when he clearly meant Greenland.

We have another three years of him as president. Of course, this eclipsed other global issues, most notably the Russian invasion of Ukraine. Global climate change did not even get a look in, except when Trump was rude about windmills.

Rowan and Douglas were of an age to enjoy the Harry Potter books from the moment they were published. They really enjoyed them, and I must admit I did too. The author, JK Rowling, decided to move into another genre, detective fiction, under the pseudonym of Robert Galbraith. The series features a disabled ex-servicemen detective called Cormoran Strike and his partner Robin Ellacott.

I bought the latest, The Hallmarked Man, some months ago. I had put off starting it because I was looking forward to it so much and wanted to savour the experience. Sadly, it became a burden. At 897 pages it is too long. I resorted to writing down a list of characters and events, in order to keep the goings-on in my head. When I got halfway through it, I had to go back and begin again since I had completely lost track, even with my notes. But I persevered and it is done.

I have many books I am looking forward to reading on my shelves but think the next one will be shorter (it would be hard to find a longer one) and perhaps on an entirely different subject. I make use of the local library, in particular the inter-library loan system, where for 60 pence one can order any book in the county collection. It might take some time, but it eventually arrives locally. Unfortunately, the last set of orders all arrived at once, and I felt overwhelmed. Let me finish here!

Theatre and Short Breaks

This somewhat meandering blog began in Paternoster, a small former fishing village on the Cape West Coast. My contribution to grandparenting is limited at this stage, so I decided to head for South Africa for a spell. As people who read this regularly know, I avoid Durban from January to April/May; it is just too hot and humid, so this was the last chance to visit for a while.

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Theatre and Books

It has been an intense month for international events, most emanating from North America. As I write it seems that there may be a trade war brewing thanks to the tariffs Trump’s government wants to impose on Canada, Mexico and China. Lenin is reputed to have said “there are decades when nothing happens, and then weeks when decades happen”. That is how January felt to me. I begin this blog with some reflections on the situation the world finds itself in. Then, because this is all quite depressing, and beyond my control, I will move on to events, books and other things that have made life in Norwich worthwhile.

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Durban Winters are Magnificent

As I have mentioned before, Durban in winter can be magical. The days are sunny and warm, the evenings cool, and there is no humidity to contend with. To get here I travelled from Norwich to Amsterdam on 12th June. Getting up at 4:30 am to catch the six o’clock flight to Amsterdam remains a pain, but I had time to visit the lounge before boarding the Johannesburg flight. I was lucky enough to have three seats to myself on the long-haul segment.

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Museums in Spring

Spring is here. The days are longer; the crocuses have come and gone; the daffodils are out; there is blossom on many of the trees, indeed the first leaves are emerging; and it is slowly getting warmer. However, the welcome sunny days have been intermittent, the overwhelming feature has been grey and chilly periods. The temperature will rise in time.

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The Score: Durban 27°, Norwich 5°

It was something of a shock to travel from Durban to Norwich in early December 2023. Firstly, the difference in temperature was considerable; secondly, although there was a fair amount of rain in Durban, there was also sunshine. For the first week in Norwich, we had virtually no sun, just unremitting grey days; and thirdly and finally, I had been away for a long time, nearly six months. Regular readers of the blog know the reasons for my extended stay, and I won’t go into them again.

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It is Chilly in Durban

When I last posted, over a month ago, I speculated about the prospects for a drought in the south of the UK. Although I have now been in South Africa for three, I am assured that there has been ample rain in Norwich, indeed some very heavy showers with ‘localised flooding’. Sadly, this is symptomatic of global climate change. By contrast, the nights in Durban have been extremely chilly, to the point that I have had all the blankets in the flat on the bed and am wearing my fleece.

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Elections and Coronations in Spring

There were two Bank Holidays in England at the beginning of May. The ‘Early’ May Bank Holiday fell on 1st May. This, briefly, put the UK in step with much of the world, where May Day, or International Workers Day, is always celebrated on 1st May. But it will only be the case for 2023. One week later Monday the 8th May was gazetted as the public holiday to mark the coronation of Charles and Camilla on Saturday 6th May.

Some of the ideas put forward around the coronation illustrate how tone deaf the Monarchy and their supporters are, although it must be said that the press did their best to make up ‘shock horror’ stories. The first example was the ‘Oath of Allegiance’. This will, as part of the ceremony, be sworn by those present in Westminster Abbey. It was suggested that British citizens watching the coronation could do this (swear the oath), from their sofas to create a “Homage for the People”. The Mirror, a downmarket paper, had a headline: “Religious leaders sparked outrage saying those watching on TV can join the 2,000 in Westminster Abbey”. Lambeth Palace, the source of Church of England press releases, backtracked and said this would be an ‘invitation not an expectation’. I should hope so!

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Don’t trust anyone with your WhatsApp messages!

It is important to celebrate small wins. Last Friday a horse drawing a hearse clip-clopped its way down the road past our front window. I only caught a glimpse of it as it went past, however when we went out later there was evidence – horse droppings in the road. When we were children, and my mother was establishing her garden, on what had been virgin veld in Swaziland, collecting cow pats was a regular weekend pursuit. We would pile into the car and drive along the dirt roads around Mbabane. When cow pat was spotted we would hustle out of the car and scoop it into a sack. I channelled my childhood, collected a bucket, went out, and now we have nutrition for at least a few of the roses!

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Teeth and travel

At the beginning of October I developed a toothache. It persisted and got steadily worse. The dentist saw me immediately, for which I am very grateful, x-rayed the teeth, identified two abscesses, and gave me two antibiotics. One was anti-alcohol which meant I had a dry two weeks. The following week I was scheduled to fly to Johannesburg and drive to Eswatini (Swaziland). On the Monday there was a lump in my gum, and it was still very painful. I had an emergency appointment, the abscess was lanced, and the relief was immediate!

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